吃在朝鲜（一）：史诗级难吃的高丽汉堡 [美国媒体]

-------------译者：太阳最红蔡主席最亲-审核者：寒灯独夜人------------



The infamous Koryo burger. Photos by the author.

臭名昭着的高丽汉堡。 照片由作者提供。

MUNCHIES’ China correspondent Jamie Fullerton recently spent a week in Pyongyang the capital of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea gaining a rare glimpse at the hermit kingdom’s food culture. This is the first dispatch in a three-part series.

 MUNCHIES的中国记者Jamie Fullerton最近在朝鲜首都平壤度过了一个星期，一瞥这个封闭王国的食物文化。 这是一个包含三部分内容系列的第一部分。
 
For many people a trip to North Korea represents the ultimate extremity of tourism: a chance to see the world’s most isolated country and for encounters however fleeting with members of a population largely kept under the oppressive thumb of the dictatorial Kim dynasty.

对于许多人来说，朝鲜旅行是旅游的究极形态：一个看到世界上最孤立的国家的机会。然而即使是与人民的短暂接触，也处于金家王朝的严密管控下。

-------------译者：卡思-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

It’s often said that the estimated 5000 Western tourists that enter the country each year—on strictly regimented tours helmed by local guides that only visit government-approved sites—leave the country with more questions about it than they go in with. Like the other 4999 I had many questions of my own as I flew into the capital city Pyongyang last month. But at least one of my most niggling queries could be answered during that journey: my first on Air Koryo North Korea’s national airline.

据说，每年估计有5000名西方游客进入该国 - 由当地导游带队的受到严格管控的观光，只准拜访政府批准的景点 - 当离开该国的时候比他们进去时有了更多的问题。我上个月飞往首都平壤，像其他4999个游客那样我怀带了许多问题。但至少我的一个最无聊的疑问可以在那段旅程中得到回答：第一次乘坐高丽航空公司飞机。

-------------译者：laoaoe-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

The Koryo Burger the sole food item currently served on Air Koryo flights has earned a global cult following for its alleged repulsiveness and the unknown origins of its meat. The supposed nastiness of the creamy-coloured brown-glazed puck has contributed to Air Koryo being regularly branded the worst airline in the world by review website Skytrax although customer write-ups of the airline are far more favourable than the site’s in-house verdict. As something of a fast food connoisseur I wanted to taste this thing myself.

高丽汉堡，作为高丽航空目前提供的唯一一种食物，由于其传说中的恶心以及来源不明的肉饼，已经吸引了全球的狂热黑粉。这种给人感觉不干净的、奶油色的有着棕色油光的橡胶块，使得高丽航空在评论网站Skytrax上一直戴着世界上最糟糕的航空的帽子，尽管高丽航空的顾客写的捧场文章里的评价要比网站的内部评价要好得多。或多或少还算得上个专家的我就想亲自尝尝这个东西。

-------------译者：laoaoe-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------



Having obsessively read up on the Koryo Burger before my flight I was primed to retch before a flight attendant handed me one. A relatively kind review of the burger featured on a roundup of comments on Air Koryo’s food collated by MUNCHIES in September 2015 described it as featuring “mystery meat” that was “not very nice and I did not finish it”. One Facebook commenter Jim Frisk went a bit further describing it as “the worst food I’ve eaten in my entire life”.

在我上飞机前大量查阅过高丽汉堡的资料后，在飞机上空姐递给我汉堡的时候我都准备吐出来了。 一个关于这个汉堡相对温和的评价在15年9月被MUNCHIES收录进一个关于高丽航空汉堡的评论摘要中，这个评价中称其特色为夹着的"谜一样的肉”，并且它“不太好吃所以我没能把它吃完” 一个Facebook上叫 Jim Frisk的说的更过分，称之为“我一生中吃过最难吃的食物”
 
I too did not finish my Koryo Burger—but this was largely due to chewy blandness rather than revulsion. The meat was inoffensively dull and true to the intrigue that surrounds it even tougher to identify than it was to chew. I guessed that it just got over the “chicken” line. Just.

我也没能吃完我的高丽汉堡----但这是因为它又难嚼又没味道，而不是出于单纯的厌恶。这个肉味道很淡，而且就像关于它的那些渲染一样，要分辨这是什么肉比嚼它还难。我觉得它可能就刚到“鸡肉”的标准线吧，刚刚到。

-------------译者：卡思-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

Meager shreds of purple cabbage a stale bun and a processed cheese slice did little to complement the meat. An equally mysterious thin red sauce which appeared when the meat was squeezed but was thankfully far too watery to be blood added to the sense of confusion that was intensified by the bizarre war-themed propaganda films on the TV screens. The burger was served fridge-cold: a sharp unwelcome sensation for a mouth more used to the reliably comforting microwave-warmth of a Big Mac.

细碎的的紫甘蓝，一个不新鲜的小圆面包和加工的乳酪切片，没有充足的肉。当肉被挤压的时候出现一种同样神秘的薄红色的酱，但是幸运的是，酱的水份较多，因此没有了电视屏幕上奇怪的战争主题电影里那种血淋淋的错觉。汉堡从冷冰箱里拿出来：一种尖锐的不受欢迎的感觉，我的嘴巴还是更习惯可靠温馨的微波温暖的巨无霸。

-------------译者：laoaoe-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------



To be fair North Korean cuisine revolves around the twin pillars of kimchi and noodles without much history of burger production so no one should expect In-N-Out-level patty standards. Burgers have been served in Pyongyang since around 2009 when a restaurant with Singaporean backing named Samtaeseong started offering them. “There are a bunch of places that serve them and they’re all right” said Simon Cockerell general manager of Koryo Tours the company I travelled to North Korea with.

说句公道话，以泡菜和面条作为两大支柱的朝鲜料理，没有多少生产汉堡的历史，所以我们不应该指望吃到那种 In-N-Out（美国高档汉堡餐厅，译者注）级别的肉饼质量。自从2009年一家有新加坡背景的名叫“三泰成”的餐馆开始供应汉堡，汉堡才第一次在平壤出现。这次和我一起旅行的高丽旅社（一家专营朝鲜旅游的旅行社，译者注）的总经理西蒙科克里尔表示：“朝鲜有很多地方卖汉堡，而且还都不错”

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

“The chain with Singaporean investment has places that look McDonald’s-style fast-food style” added Cockerell. “But the food is never actually ready when you go in there so you have to sit and wait for 15 minutes. They’ve got the fast-food racks by the counter but nothing in them. They don’t have enough customers to justify actually cooking something and expecting someone to buy it within half an hour.”

“新加坡投资的快餐连锁店里摆放着看上去像麦当劳风格的快餐食品。” Cockerell补充说。“但是当你进到店里的时候，食品事实上根本没有做好，因此你必须要坐在那等15分钟。在柜台上摆放着一些快餐食品架，但上面什么也没有。由于客流量不够多，所以他们就没把握提前做好等客人来买。”

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------
 
Cockerell who has flown with Air Koryo around 200 times agreed with my verdict on the Koryo Burger: that reports of it being disgusting feel exaggerated. “If you’re a person of the world then the worst thing you’ve ever tasted should be something unfeasibly disgusting” he rightly said. “You’ve lived a dull life if a tasteless piece of meat and bread is the worst thing you’ve ever eaten.”

Cockerell曾经乘坐高丽航空旅行200次左右，他对我对高丽汉堡“关于高丽汉堡难吃的报道被夸大了”的判断表示认同。“如果你是这世上的普通一人，那么你曾经尝过的最难吃的东西应该是那些极端令人厌恶的东西”他公正地说。“如果一片没有味道的肉和面包就是你吃过的最难吃的东西，那你过去是生活地多么沉闷啊。”
 


Before the flight he had told me that the vegetarian option on Air Koryo was to “not have the burger.” I assumed he was referring to abstinence but was corrected when the passenger next to me requested the veggie option and was handed a Koryo Burger bun minus the meat bit but with a couple of extra tomato slices.

在飞行前，他告诉我高丽航班给素食者的选择是“不要汉堡”。我本以为他指的是不吃汉堡，但当我旁边的乘客要求素餐时，乘务员给了他一个没有肉但加了两片西红柿的高丽汉堡，我的这一想法被纠正了。

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

Whether you go for the original or “veggie” option with the flight route between Beijing and Pyongyang taking less than two hours the lack of taste appeal of the nourishment available on it hardly matters. Eating a Koryo Burger is a box to tick—which is something that some critics of North Korea tour firms claim is all a visit to the country can ever really be due to the restrictions on tourists there. (Having spent an intriguingly bizarre week in the country I thoroughly disagree.)

北京往返平壤的航班飞行时间不到两个小时，不管你想要一个原味的或者蔬菜的汉堡，虽然机上提供的这份食物没有吸引力，但是这并不重要。吃高丽汉堡是唯一可做的事情——一些对朝鲜旅游公司持批评意见的人说这是你访问朝鲜期间唯一能做成的事情，因为那里对游客的限制太多了。（在朝鲜度过了有趣古怪的一周后，我完全不同意这种看法。）
 
Facebook commenter Ian Bell had the most reasonable summary of the Koryo Burger that I read. “Sure it tasted weird and was cold but it was interesting to try a North Korean take on a hamburger” he wrote. “My only complaint was that we were seated next to a drunk guy in a strange hat who kept falling asleep on my dad.”

我读过的最公平的有关高丽汉堡的看法来自脸书的评论者 Ian Bell，他说“诚然，它尝起来的感觉很奇怪并且冰凉，但试吃一个北朝鲜的汉堡是很有趣的事情。我唯一的抱怨就是邻座醉汉一直靠着我爸爸睡觉。”

原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.com 翻译：翻译加工厂 转载请注明出处
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