吃在朝鲜（二）：前往平壤最新的披萨店 [美国媒体]

-------------译者：strawberry-pie-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

MUNCHIES’ China correspondent Jamie Fullerton recently spent a week in Pyongyang the capital of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea gaining a rare glimpse at the hermit kingdom’s food culture. This is the second dispatch in a three-part series. 

MUNCHIES驻中国记者Jamie Fullerton最近去朝鲜首都平壤度过了一周，一探这个隐士王国的食物文化。这是三部分系列中的第二部分。

When it comes to pizza my favourite food I’m not enormously fussy. But when I was served the pepperoni pizza I had ordered at Italy Pizza the newest Italian restaurant in the North Korean capital of Pyongyang I had to politely ask that the staff take it back and add some cheese as it had been served with none. That’s me: the picky Brit abroad.

当我遇到最喜欢的食物匹萨时我不会很挑剔。但当我在北朝鲜首都平壤最新的意大利餐厅“Italy Pizza ”点的匹萨端上来后，因为匹萨上面没有芝士，我不得不礼貌地要求服务员把它端回去加一些芝士。那就是我：那个国外的挑剔的英国人。

 -------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

Italian food has only been a “thing”—and a niche “thing” at that—in the city since 2008 when the first Italian joint in North Korea opened. So it’s easy to forgive a few pizza production basics such as putting cheese on them occasionally going awry. It also seems a little crass to moan about such slights in a country in which the memory of the 1990s famine that killed around 2 million people is still fresh.

从2008年第一家意大利合资餐厅在平壤开业以来，意大利食物还只不成气候，只是餐饮的一个小风景而已。所以如果忘记了披萨制作的一些基本要点还是可以原谅的，比如忘记了在披萨上面放芝士。在这个国家，1990年的大饥荒让差不多200万人丧命的记忆还依然清晰，似乎在这里抱怨披萨做得有点糙还是有点愚蠢和缺乏同情心的。
 
With the totalitarian country kept in chronic isolation by current leader Kim Jong-un information about food infrastructure there is hard to verify. Numerous reports however suggest that much of the North Korean rural classes live hand to mouth. The middle and upper classes are usually granted the chance to live in cities the most elite being Pyongyang where an increasingly moneyed middle class has emerged over the past decade. This has fuelled the rise of Western-style restaurants in the capital.

在现任领导人金正恩的统治下，人们无法得知这个长期与世隔绝的极权国家到底有着怎样的粮食面貌。然而无数报道声称北朝鲜的农民大多过着食不果腹的生活。中产和上层阶级通常才有机会生活在城市里，过去十年间，顶层精英人士生活的平壤，越来越有钱的中产阶级开始出现。这也就促使西式餐馆在平壤的兴起。

-------------译者：cortex-审核者：食狮客------------



Pepperoni pizza at Italy Pizza. All photos by the author.                      

图为意大利腊肠披萨

Now in Pyongyang you can find beer bars burger restaurants and perhaps surprisingly considering the North Korean regime’s attitude toward the country’s historic enemy of Japan a sushi joint. Italy Pizza is the third Italian restaurant to open in the city arriving in late 2015 as part of the opening of Mirae Scientists Street: a stretch characterised by pastel-coloured skyscrapers located next to the Taedong River that runs through the centre of the capital.

如今在平壤，你可以找到啤酒吧或汉堡店甚至吃惊的发现被看作朝鲜对其历史敌人日本政治态度的寿司店。意大利匹萨店是这里的第三家意大利餐厅，2015未来大街开幕的时候开张的。未来大街毗邻横穿首都的大同江，盖着大片五颜六色的摩天大楼。
 


Mirae Street.        

图为未来大街

As is the case for many of the Pyongyang hotels and restaurants foreigners are allowed to visit the décor of Italy Pizza is 1970s cruise liner-level kitsch. Gloriously odd touches abound such as this fish tank with no fish in it. Or water.

在这个容纳了平壤诸多酒店和餐厅的大街上，外国人被允许参观意大利匹萨店里上世纪70年代刻奇流的装饰。辉煌古怪的手法，充斥着诸如没有鱼或者没有水的鱼缸。

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------



Pizza dough is churned out in an open kitchen. Although most North Koreans are banned from travelling abroad many Western-style restaurants in Pyongyang get permission to send their staff overseas for training.

披萨的饼基是在一个开放厨房里制作的。绝大部分朝鲜人是禁止出国的，但平壤很多西式餐厅被允许将员工送到海外培训。
 


The restaurant was not very busy on my Friday evening visit and I was told that this is typical. Many of the approximately 5000 Westerners who visit North Korea as tourists each year have speculated online that venues such as these exist purely as showcases for foreigners. Simon Cockerell general manager of UK-owned North Korea tour specialists Koryo Tours said that this was unlikely.

我周五晚上去的时候，餐馆不是很忙。别人告诉我说这是常态。每年有大约5000个西方人到朝鲜旅游，他们在网路上猜测，这些西式餐厅只是单纯为了展示给外国人看的。Simon Cockerell 是英国人开的主营朝鲜游的高丽旅行社的总经理，他说，这不太可能。

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------
 
Cockerell explained that while all North Korean restaurants will ultimately be state-owned businessmen and women who operate within work units that manage them have a bit of leeway with regard to the style of venues that they open. “It’s easy to say there’s no profit motive but costs versus income is still a ‘thing’” he said. “They might be willing to lose money for say three years or something but there is such thing as a restaurant closing in Pyongyang because not enough people went there. They are businesses.”

Cockerell解释说，所有的朝鲜餐馆最后都会变成国有的，餐厅的经营者都是这个国家管理单位的员工，他们在开设餐厅的地点风格上有一定的灵活决定权。“显而易见的是，开餐馆不是追求利润的，但成本相比收入也真是高的“相当的可以””他说，“他们可能愿意头三年赔钱开或者别的什么原因继续经营，在平壤，因为顾客不足，餐馆关门也不是新鲜事。毕竟是生意。”
 
Italy Pizza does more to attract business than just serve pizzas. After my dinner was served perhaps due to having few other customers to deal with a waitress serenaded the room with an impressive karaoke session.

意大利披萨店不止是卖披萨，还做了很多事吸引生意。我吃完饭后，可能是因为还有其他几个客人在，一个服务员唱了一曲令人难忘的卡拉ok小夜曲。

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

 

The imagery on the karaoke screen was typical of that seen on TV in North Korea: fighter jets guns tanks and the occasional nod to heavy industry.

卡拉ok显示屏上的图像就是我们在北朝鲜电视上最常看到的画面：战斗机、喷气式飞机、枪支、坦克和重工业的一些场景。



The pizza meanwhile was pretty good with a pleasantly fluffy crust. The tomato sauce won’t be challenging Domino’s for tang factor any time soon but it’s unlikely that many people will be in a position to make a direct comparison within the next few decades.

同时，有着松软外壳的披萨味道也相当不多。这里的番茄酱在味道上是比不上多米诺披萨的番茄酱，但是在未来几十年，人们想要看到一个直观的对比也是不可能的。
 
Most pizzas were priced at the equivalent of around $6 to $10 US each making them unaffordable to most locals but not in the elite price range of fine dining in Pyongyang. I wondered if by being exotic and pricey compared to local staples such as noodles and kimchi eating pizza was a bit of a status symbol in the city.

大多数披萨定价都在大约六到十美金，这个价格，大多数当地人吃不起，但在平壤，这个价格也不是高档晚餐的价格范围内。相比于面条和泡菜等当地主要食品，披萨这种外来食品，又价格昂贵，我想在平壤这是否是一种阶层的象征呢？

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：龙腾翻译总管------------

Cockerell reckoned not. “There’s still this thing in North Korea where people don’t like to be seen eating in public” he said. “You’d think that restaurants might have good views from their windows but often they have curtains over them. It is more socially acceptable now to have more money than someone else but that mentality probably comes from a time when eating out was seen as showing off and showing off is seen as bad. It’s innate conservatism.”

Cockerell认为并不是这样。他说：“在北朝鲜，人们还是不喜欢被别人看到在公共场所吃饭。餐馆可能有窗子可以看到很好地风景，但窗户上都挂有窗帘。现如今，比其他人更有钱更能被社会认可，然而这种不愿在公共场合就餐的心态可能源自于曾经的“在外就餐被视为炫耀”的时代，炫耀又被认为是不好的。这就是固有的保守心态” 。

I’ll return to Italy Pizza should I ever find myself in Pyongyang again. And next time I’ll go for the Fruit Pizza. If any dish flies in the face of innate conservatism it’s got to be this thing.

下次我再去平壤时还要去这家意大利餐厅。而那时候我会点水果披萨。如果有什么食物可以和固有的保守心态公然对抗的话，那非水果披萨莫属了。



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