吃在朝鲜（三）：在平壤的啤酒吧品酒 [美国媒体]

-------------译者：magicqueen99-审核者：CandiceH------------

MUNCHIES’ China correspondent Jamie Fullerton recently spent a week in Pyongyang the capital of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea gaining a rare glimpse at the hermit kingdom’s food culture. This is the final dispatch in a three-part series. 

MUNCHIES驻中国的记者杰米.富勒顿最近在朝鲜民主主义人民共和国首都平壤游历一周，对这个与世隔绝的王国的饮食文化有了很难得的浮光掠影的了解。这是分为三部分的系列报道中的最后一篇。

Pyongyang the capital of hyper-isolated and totalitarian North Korea might not sound like the obvious location for a beer-sodden knees-up with the jolly boys. Although we’re not quite at a stage where Pyongyangers are regularly getting massively pissed up and vomiting down their Mao suits in recent years beer halls have become established popular spots in the city where locals can unwind after a hard day of work and repeatedly bowing to portraits of the Kim dynasty leaders.

作为超级孤立的极权国家朝鲜的首都，平壤可能听起来不是那种典型的快活的男生们啤酒喝得醉醺醺地跳舞聚会的地方。虽然我们不在那个平壤人定期大批人喝得烂醉如泥，在刻板的制服上吐得一塌糊涂的时候。近年来，啤酒馆已经成为热门据点，当地人在经过一天紧张工作，不停地在金氏王朝领袖们的画像前鞠躬后，可以在这里放松一下。

-------------译者：CandiceH-审核者：CandiceH------------

The seven varieties of beer from the Taedonggang brewery are the tipples on offer at such places with the rising popularity of the Pyongyang-made brews fuelling the launch of the city’s first ever beer festival last August. Production of Taedonggang began after the North Korean government bought and imported an entire brewery Ushers of Trowbridge in 2000. Now there are around five large Pyongyang beer halls serving it.

“平壤酿造”成功推动了平壤第一届啤酒节，大同江啤酒厂产出的七种啤酒也成为八月平壤啤酒节的特供。朝鲜2000年买下ushers of Trowbridge的一整家酿酒厂的设备后，大同江酿酒厂的生产线便开始运作起来。如今，大约有五家大型平壤啤酒馆供应大同江酒酿。

Last month I visited one of them Mansugyo Beer Bar maintaining the slim hope of lucking out and stumbling into a welcoming Pyongyang stag party until it became clear that the bar was not that kind of establishment. Sparsely decorated lick-the-floor clean and with no music (the latter aspect perhaps being the one thing the pub had in common with J D Wetherspoon’s décor and brand concept) the venue is a touch more minimalist than your average Red Lion.

上个月我去到一家名叫Mansugyo的酒吧，希望运气好能在平壤碰上一次单身聚会，然而事实证明，这酒吧画风并非那样。装潢虽然简陋却一尘不染，室内也没有音乐的调剂（装潢风格和音乐理念应该是唯一的与英国着名连锁酒吧--威瑟斯本的相同点了吧），场地选择则走的是那种比英国极简风代表--红狮酒吧更胜一筹的简约抽象路线。



 -------------译者：CandiceH-审核者：CandiceH------------

A few propaganda posters on the terrace brightened the place up though.

不过墙上几张政治宣传海报似乎让这地方更“红”了

As is the case at most of the beer halls in the city customers stand at tables as they knock back pints that sell for the equivalent of about 50 cents US. The brews are named and numbered from One to Seven. The most conventional lager-style offerings are on the lower end of the scale with more extreme tipples such as chocolate- and coffee-flavoured beers assigned the highest numbers.

平壤城里大多数酒馆的常客总是站在桌旁，喝掉大约50美分的酒。这酒没有名字，只有一到七的编号。最常见的淡啤酒往往“名列前茅”，而烈度更高的，像巧克力或咖啡味的啤酒，编号往往靠后。

Most people in the bar plumped for the conservative options. One (as in the beer named One) was an enjoyably crisp golden medium-strength lager-esque drink while Two was a slightly lighter version that is also bottled and sold in many other places around the city. They were both pretty tasty.

大多酒馆客人的选择似乎都很保守，偏向于一号和二号酒。一号酒后劲不大但口感酥香，而二号酒稍微比一号酒再淡那么一点，不过在平壤其他地方以瓶装出售，销量可观。这两种酒都风味十足。

-------------译者：shulibo20161204-审核者：CandiceH------------



I gave the chocolate and coffee styles a whirl but their mildly unpleasant bitterness gave an indication of why I was the only person in the bar doing so. They’re not tongue-troublingly bad but Six and Seven are clearly just making up the numbers.

我尝试了巧克力和咖啡味的，它的不是很让人喜欢微苦口味使我明白为什么我是酒吧里唯一这样选的人。倒不是难以下咽的难喝但是显然6，7种酒品是凑数的呀。



My visit was at 5:30 PM on a Wednesday afternoon. The atmosphere was polite and subdued with the day’s first post-work drinkers most of them male providing a lightly bubbling soundtrack of glass clixs and murmurs. Pyongyang is where North Korea’s most privileged citizens live and while the presence of the beer halls there is a result of the emergence of a wealthier middle class in the city the relative low cost of the drink means that they are not refuges of the absolute elite. The liquor soju remains the most popular booze in the country but draft beer is becoming more common and accessible.

 我是在一个星期三的下午5点半进来的。里面的气氛很温和融洽。只有一些第一拨下班的男顾客的碰杯声和私语声。平壤是朝鲜比较先进的城市。所以在酒吧里偶尔看到更富有的中产阶级，酒价位不高意味着（酒吧）平民也可以常来。烧酒依然是这个国家最流行的酒品，但是生啤酒也越来越普遍和容易买到。

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：CandiceH------------

“Beer is a bit middle-class in North Korea but you never know who’s going to end up drinking at these places” said Simon Cockerell general manager of UK-owned North Korea tour company Koryo Tours the firm I travelled to Pyongyang with. “I once went to a similar beer bar in the city and ended up talking to a table of very loud female gynecologists.”

Simon Cockerell 是英国的朝鲜旅游公司高丽旅行社的总经理，我去平壤旅游时就是找的他的公司。他说：“在朝鲜，啤酒有点中产阶级的意味。但是你可能能永远不会知道谁将会来喝。有次我去平壤一个类似的啤酒吧喝酒，和一桌非常大声聊天的女妇产医生有过交谈。”

I was told that the good-natured raising of voices is one of the few overt signs of drunkenness I was likely to encounter at a Pyongyang beer hall. The drinkers I was sharing the place with barely threatened to register even that; they seemed to be there for a couple of civilised rounds after work.

她们告诉我，平壤的啤酒吧里，无恶意地提高嗓门是一种常见的喝醉酒的现象，我都极有可能碰到。即使这样，和我一起在酒馆里喝酒的人几乎都不会这样，他们只是下班后来这里安静的喝几杯罢了。

-------------译者：CandiceH-审核者：CandiceH------------



“It’s a conservative society” said Cockerell. “These bars aren’t open late. You see people who are more ‘sleepy’ drunk rather than passed-out drunk. That tends to be in parks when people have had a soju-heavy picnic.

“这是个保守的社会”，克柯瑞说到，“这些酒吧并不会开到很晚，所以里边出来的人往往只是微醺而非醉得不省人事。而后者往往是那些在公园里喝烧酒解闷儿的人的常态”
 
“In these bars people just get a little bit rowdy sometimes; you never see anyone getting carried out and I’ve never seen a punch-up over a spilled pint or anything like that. They’re not open all day so there’s not like an old guy perched at the end of the bar who’s been there every day for 40 years.”

“这些酒吧的确是有些喧嚣，然而逐客情况或者口角之争却很少见。它们并非全天营业，所以你不会看到那种像是在吧台边坐了四十来年醉醺醺的糟老头儿。”

-------------译者：统而言之-审核者：CandiceH------------

With most able young men in North Korea conscxted to the army the beer halls’ clientele tends to not be particularly young. “You do see the occasional young couple on a date here though” said Cockerell. “They’re called ‘donju dates’ —donju means new money people the ‘masters of money.’ It’s a North Korean word that’s now also being used in South Korea too.”

因为朝鲜最优能力的年轻人都参军去了，所以啤酒酒廊里的客人都不是特别年轻。Cockerell说：“你的确会偶尔看到一些年轻情侣在这里约会，称作donju聚会，dongju意思是新财富阶层，这个朝鲜新词韩国人也在用。”

Sadly there were no donju dates taking place during my fleeting trip to Mansugyo Beer Bar. Still I’d happily take a lady for a pint of Two there should the ban on foreigners freely roaming in North Korea be lifted in my lifetime. I liked it there; the bar offers a rare chance on Pyongyang’s rigid tours for outsiders to see the city’s locals relaxing or at least appearing to. Sort a big drop-down screen for Super Sunday and they’ll be laughing.

很遗憾，在我短暂的旅途中，我去到的平壤曼苏优啤酒吧里没有碰到DONJU聚会。如果有朝一日朝鲜解除禁止外国人在街上乱逛的禁令，那么我会很乐意带一个女士去那里喝个一两杯的。酒吧给旅游者枯燥的行程一个珍贵的机会一睹当地人的休闲放松的方式，或者至少看上去是休闲放松的。就像《超级星期天》降下大幕，他们都笑开怀。



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