《纽约客》：葡萄酒能改变中国农村吗？ - 评论 [美国媒体]

Can wine transform China‘s countryside

葡萄酒能改变中国农村吗？


[–]ChalkyTannins 
Great article.
I have visited Ningxia a couple of times. First time as a tourist in 2014, and then a couple of years ago I helped a harvest in Yinchuan. Learned first hand of the government corruption in the region. Many failed wineries, million dollar Styrofoam faux-chateaus, built with gov money.

文章写得太棒了！
我去过好几次宁夏。第一次是在2014年，那次是去旅游的，前几年，我去银川帮着他们收获葡萄。对于当地政府的腐败，我可是掌握了第一手资料。许多失败的酒庄，价值数百万美元泡沫山寨酒庄都是政府出资修建的。

The region does have potential to grow quality wine, but so many wineries were started by wealthy individuals who made money in mining and fossil fuels wanting a vanity project (not unlike the USA), but for most, all of the money went into their crappy chateaux ( like the one i worked in ), needlessly expensive equipment, and overpriced/under-qualified French wine consultants. They didn't put any money into the vineyard, where it is needed most. Things are changing though, more money is being spent and more energy being focused on better farming practices thanks to the hardwork and true passion of a few individuals like Ema Gao (silver heights) and Zhang Jing (helan qingxue) from the article.

银川确实有生产高品质葡萄酒的潜质，但是很多酒厂都是富豪开的，这些富豪以矿产和化石燃料发家，开葡萄酒厂只不过是想装点门面，和美国没有两样。大部分酒庄，钱都投进他们破酒庄里没用的昂贵的设备和要价过高的却质量低下的法国红酒顾问了，我之前工作的酒庄就是这样。钱没有投到葡萄庄园，葡萄庄园才是最需要钱的地方。不过还好，情况正在改变，一些有志之士正将更多人力和物力投入到葡萄农业实践，这要归功于文中提到的高源（银色高地酒庄）和张静（荷兰晴雪酒庄）等真正对葡萄酒行业真正投入激情的人。

Example of a typical, poorly farmed, government-owned vineyard
Example of a new Silver Heights vineyard with much better vineyard management
What this article doesn't touch on, is that Yinchuan needs to decide if it wants to be a wine growing region, or a petroleum/coal region, especially when so much money and effort has been spent on copying Napa's tourist model. You can't give a romantic experience of a domestic wine growing region when there are smoke stacks and industrial factories just a mile away from the vineyards.

典型的例子就是，国有葡萄园管理不到位；而银色高地葡萄园的管理就好得多。
还有一点这篇文章没有提及：银川花费了大量财力和物力来复制纳帕谷旅游模式，那现在银川的定位是葡萄酒种植区，还是石油、煤炭产区？如果在国内葡萄种植区的葡萄园旅游，在一英里范围内能清楚地看到冒着浓烟的火力发电大烟囱以及工业工厂，那这肯定不是一次浪漫的旅行。

   

 

Part of the Helan Mountain that they celebrate as being integral to their local terroir has been completely leveled. When I first visited in 2014, they were just starting to bulldoze a corner of it ( this small range seen here ). Now it's all but gone. There's also a lot of uncertainty about land leasing from the government, as it's not your standard 70-yr lease. The government could just decide to shut down this whole wine experiment in Yinchuan.

当地人引以为豪，认为是他们一部分的贺兰山，有一部分已经被夷为平地了。2014年我第一次来这里的时候，他们刚刚开始推平一个山脚，现在这里全部都被推平了。另外从政府租赁的土地也有不确定因素，土地租赁年限并不是标准的70年。政府可以停止银川所有与葡萄酒相关的尝试。

 

I really wish them all the best. There are a lot of extremely passionate, young, entrepreneurial vintners there, and the potential to grow quality wine is not exaggerated propaganda.

我真心希望这里能发展的更好。这里有充满激情、年轻有位和有企业家精神的葡萄酒商,这里发展优质葡萄酒的潜力并不是夸大宣传。

Sidenote, the Hui/han culinary fusion is really f'in delicious and the Hui may not drink, but marijuana can be found everywhere in the vineyards. The Han locals have no idea what it is xD It was such a surreal experience making wine in a dilapidated, soviet-era construction fake castle, with muslim minorities taking a break from sorting grapes and farming to pray as a prayer is blasted through the country side through cheap loudspeakers.

旁注：回汉烹饪融合做出来的东西太好吃了，回族不喝酒，但是葡萄园里到处都是大麻。当地汉族人不认识这个东西。苏联时期建造破败的山寨城堡里，村里廉价的喇叭里传出穆斯林少数民族在分拣葡萄和干农活休息的间隙祈祷的声音，简直有种超现实的感觉。

 

album of a few other photos from my trips

放点拍得几张照片

 

贺兰晴雪酒庄

 

酒窖

 

银色高地的老酒窖

 

银色高地的葡萄园

 

贺兰晴雪的酿酒师张静

 

酩悦香槟现代设备

 

酩悦香槟

 

张裕酒庄

 

张裕葡萄酒博物馆

 

回族工人

[–]HotNatured 
Hey this comment is a great addendum to the article. Thanks for sharing. We just might plan a trip now... My wife isn't much of a drinker, but you sold her with the marijuana comment

这条评论是对这篇文章非常好的补充。谢谢你的分享。我们现在正在计划去那里旅行呢。我妻子不太爱喝酒，但是你提到的大麻出卖了她。

[–]ChalkyTannins
I haven't been back for a couple of years, I'd love to see the changes. For a relatively small city in a relatively remote area of China, there are a lot of surprising things to find, probably because of the money and influence flowing there from the coal/petroleum industry.

我已经有好几年没去银川了，我很想看看那里的变化。在这座中国相对偏远的小城市，你会发现很多让人惊奇的东西，可能是煤炭和石油行业的资金流向了这座城市的原因吧。

For example, had dinner at this 'underground' pizza shop, operating out of a converted duplex in a residential xiao qu. Young people, blasting american hip-hop, making a surprisingly good attempt at a traditional Neapolitan pizza, something you might expect to find in Shanghai, but not in a city of less than 2 million in Inner-Mongolia.

例如,这家地下披萨店就开在居民区改造的复式房里。年轻人喜欢激烈的美国嘻哈音乐，对传统的那不勒斯披萨做出让人意想不到的尝试,在上海能找到的东西，在这座人口不到200万的内蒙古（译者注：应该是宁夏）城市，你同样找得到。

[–]TeeribleMureal 
I have not once sampled a good bottle of Chinese wine, and I have, on quite a few occasions, sampled bottles in the 100-200 yuan price range. The fact that i can go to Walmart and get a bottle of French wine for 38yuan that is probably better than anything ever likely to be produced here tells me that this is probably a bad idea.

我在好多场合，尝过价位100-200的中国葡萄酒，但是我从来没喝到过一瓶像样的葡萄酒。事实是，我在沃尔玛38块钱就能买到一瓶法国红酒，这瓶红酒可能比这里生产的任何红酒都要好，告诉我，这可能是个馊主意。

[–]ChalkyTannins
It can be good though.
Brought over some of the better wines from Yinchuan to a blind tasting with some industry peeps, one of them a master sommelier, and they held up for the most part to similarly priced Napa wines.

也可能是个好主意。
从银川买一些好点的葡萄酒，然后行业内的人士进行盲目测试，其中还有一位是品酒大师，最后大部分人都认为中国葡萄酒和同等价位的纳帕葡萄酒没什么差别。

 

[–]HotNatured
I bought a bottle of Kanaan cab sauv--maybe around 300rmb. A bit uhhh unrefined? Maybe over-oaked? But compared to the Chinese swill I've had before, it was miles and away better. Hell, better than some of the NZ or Chilean cab sauv that I've purchased in China, too

我买了一瓶迦南美地赤霞珠，大概300元。喝起来好像没有萃取?也许是橡木味道太重了?不过与之前的中国泔水葡萄酒比起来，品质好太多了。比我在中国买的新西兰和智利赤霞珠还要好。

[–]ChalkyTannins
They do a pretty good job with their reds. One common character I find in most of the wines from that region is that they're quite reductive, that rubber/egg/sulphur smell. They don't introduce enough oxygen in the wine-making process, but that's all improving across the board. I found that the vintners there did everything they could to minimize 'open' fermentation out of a fear that all of the fruit aromatics will escape. At the rate these young passionate vintners are going, I'm sure most producers will have this nipped in the bud in no time.

他们的红酒做得很好。我发现这里大部分葡萄酒都有一个共同的特质，葡萄酒都是还原法酿造的，葡萄酒里有橡胶、鸡蛋、硫磺（二氧化硫）的味道。这是因为在酿酒过程中没有引入足够的氧气，但这一切都在改善。我发现，这里的葡萄酒酿造商会竭尽所能地降低“开放式”发酵，因为他们担心葡萄酒的水果香味跑光。以这些年轻热情的葡萄酒商的速度，我敢肯定，他们会把其他大部分葡萄酒生产商扼杀在萌芽状态。

One thing I really hope they do away with is their riesling, which isn't even riesling, it's a different varietal mainly grown in post-soviet/central europe. Completely ill-suited for the environment of Yinchuan. Syrah would be absolutely SICK there, but I guess there's no market for it, so the couple of producers that do make it, will unfortunately replant it with something else.

我唯一不希望他们涉及的品种是雷司令，这里的雷司令不是真正的是雷司令，而是一种完全不同的品种，这个品种主要生长在苏联和中欧地区。完全不适应银川的环境。席拉葡萄在这里就会害病，所以，我觉得这两个品种的葡萄酒不会有什么市场，所以这生产这两种酒的厂家运气不好，要选其他品种的葡萄了。

[–]HotNatured 
Do you work in wine? I don't really have the wine knowledge to wax poetic about it, but I don't remember much in the way of sulphur. That Kanaan Pretty Pony that I had was dominated by the oak, but I enjoyed that and whatever else it had going on. On my previous trips to Napa, we'd always crack jokes about being "medium toasted" ourselves, but while a nice cab that's spent time on oak there makes that well known, it was generally part of an underlying complexity. The Kanaan was awfully forward about it, but I don't know a good cab in the same price range here in China. The Silver Oak has always been so-so, but even that runs like 1200rmb+

你从事葡萄酒行业吗？我葡萄酒方面的知识匮乏，没办法充满诗意的赞美它，不过我不记得有硫磺什么事（译者注：应为二氧化硫）。我这有瓶迦南美地小马驹红葡萄酒，橡木味很浓，不过我还是挺喜欢的。之前在纳帕旅游，我们开玩笑说我们在被“中烤”，纳帕谷赤霞珠葡萄酒是装在橡木桶里的，这款葡萄酒比较出名，口味有点复杂。迦南葡萄酒也想达到这种效果，但在中国，我没有找到同等价位的好的赤霞珠葡萄酒。银色橡木酒庄那帕产区干红葡萄酒的价格还可以，但是价格也能达到1200元。

[–]ChalkyTannins
Yeah, the producers in Yinchuan that could afford it went all in on 100% new french oak, but the fruit just can't match that much wood. Understandable though, as French consultants, probably getting kickbacks from barrel suppliers, sorta oversold everyone on using new oak, but even when I was there, producers were already dialing back the amount of oak. One thing I always keep in mind is, most of these guys have less than a decade of experience under their belt, kinda like the wild west. Reminds me a bit of what I imagine Napa/Sonoma being like back in the 60s.
Yeah, Silver Oak, or american wines in general are a terrible value in China, due to extreme taxation and an unfortunate situation with improper storage.

是的，100%使用橡木桶存储葡萄酒，银川的葡萄酒商完全负担得起，不过宁夏的葡萄产量没那么多，橡木桶的数量绰绰有余。这其实可以理解，宁夏酒庄有很多法国顾问，他们可能会从橡木桶供应商那里拿回扣，这些顾问遇到酒庄就销橡木桶，肯定会出现重复销售。我在银川的时候，葡萄酒厂的橡木桶需求已经减少了。我一直谨记的一件事，这里大部分的人不到十年就取得了成功，就想美国的狂野西部一样。这让我想起了60年代的加州北部酒乡纳帕和索诺玛。
确实，因为进口重税和存放条件不乐观，银色橡木等美国红酒在中国的价格整体偏高。

[–]HotNatured 
an unfortunate situation with improper storage
Shit! This is absolutely the case with craft beer coming over, too.

【葡萄酒的存放条件不乐观】
是的，精酿啤酒也有这种情况。

[–]sanjugo  
Please show me what this French wine is for that cheap and I would be over it.
Great Wall has some pretty good stuff.

告诉我哪款法国葡萄酒这么便宜，我去买。
长城葡萄酒的东西还是不错的。

[–]TeeribleMureal 
Languedoc 2015. Let it air for about 30mins before drinking. For the price it is, by far, the best wine in China.

郎格多克2015。喝之前先与空气接触大约30分钟。就这个价位来说，朗格多克2015是目前中国最好的葡萄酒了。

[–]sanjugo
I have not seen that wine, the cheapest Languedoc wine I've seen is 88yuan, not 38.

我没见过这种酒，我见过最便宜的朗格多克葡萄酒88元，不是38元。

[–]TeeribleMureal
It's 38 in my local Walmart in Ningbo, and has been for the last two years, but each Walmart can be different.

我在宁波，我们这沃尔玛卖的这款就是38元，这两年一直都是这个价，不过各地的沃尔玛价格都不一样。

[–]sanjugo 
Give me a link or picture, I'll see if I can find it. I really want to see this much cheaper wine that's better than Great Wall.

给个链接或图片，我看看能不能找到。我真想看看比长城葡萄酒还便宜的葡萄酒到底怎么样。

[–]TeeribleMureal 
Any cheap French wine in the big supermarkets are miles better than Great Wall (so too are most if not all of the other cheap foreign wines), Languedoc 2015 being the best and it is available for 38 yuan at my local Walmart in Ningbo. Sorry for lack of photo but I don't know how to upload photos. I would never buy Great Wall, even most small corner stores have better foreign options. To be honest I'm surprised any foreigner, who isn't confined to a very small city, would ever buy Great Wall or Dynasty etc. 
大型超市里销售的任何一种便宜的法国葡萄酒都比长城葡萄酒好得多，不能说所有国外品牌的葡萄酒都比中国葡萄酒好，但是绝大部分都比中国好。朗格多克2015是最好的，宁波当地沃尔玛就有得卖，38元。对不起，我没有照片，我不知道如何上传照片。我绝对不买长城葡萄酒，门口小商店卖得任何一种国外品牌的葡萄酒都比长城好。老实说，除非是在很小的城市里，不然如果外国人买长城或王朝等葡萄酒，我会感到非常惊讶。

[–]sanjugo 
No luck here, the cheapest I've seen is 88rmb. I can agree that some of the French wines are my favourites but and not all of them are great particularly for the prices they ask for.
Compared to some of the other foreign wines that I've sampled from countries I did not expect to produce wines, Great Wall is actually pretty good if not better than them. Not sure if it is because the Japanese prefer lighter wine, I prefer a slightly richer taste. The fact GW is cheaper is a sweet bonus too, goes very well with pasta while cooking/drinking at the same time, something that I would never do with more expensive wine.

我们这就没有这么好的运气了。我看到的最便宜的朗格多克是88元。我确实很喜欢一些法国葡萄酒，但是并不是所有的法国葡萄酒都物有所值。
我尝过一些国外品牌的葡萄酒，说实话，没想到这些国家竟然也产葡萄酒，与这些葡萄酒相比，长城葡萄酒就算没有它们好，也算相当不错了。我不太确实日本人是不是更喜欢清淡的葡萄酒，我更喜欢味道稍浓一点的。实际上，长城葡萄酒价格便宜就是优点呀，吃意大利面的时候喝点长城葡萄酒就很惬意，我反正不会再选更贵的葡萄酒了。

[–]educo
More bottles of Great Wall?
edit: Okay, this was actually a pretty interesting read.

再来几瓶长城葡萄酒？
不错，这篇文章不错。

[–]winemuleWino 6 points 7 days ago 
Some things never change:
“Enthusiasm for the concept of wine outpaced concrete knowledge,” she said. Few people understood that Bordeaux was not a brand but the name of a region. Counterfeiters started obtaining empty bottles of expensive wine and filling them with plonk, and even created ersatz wine by mixing sugar water with artificial color and flavor. “Chinese people didn’t really know what wine is supposed to taste like, so it was spectacularly easy to get away with,” she said.

有些事情永远不会改变:
“他们对葡萄酒概念的热情超过葡萄酒本身，”她说，很少有人知道波尔多不是葡萄酒的品牌，而是产地。造假者们开始收集昂贵的空葡萄酒瓶，然后装上劣质葡萄酒，甚至糖水与人造色素和香精造的假葡萄酒。她说:“中国人不知道真正葡萄酒的味道，所以很容易上当受骗。”

[–]WinterCharm 
That’s a damn shame

太特么丢人了。