这个柬埔寨城市正在变成一个中国的飞地 [美国媒体]

This Cambodian city is turning into a Chinese enclave

这个柬埔寨城市正在变成一个中国的飞地

 

The Blue Bay is a Chinese resort under construction in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. (Anna Fifield/The Washington Post) 

蓝湾是西哈努克市正在建设中的一个中国度假胜地。 (安娜 · 菲菲尔德 / 华盛顿邮报)

SIHANOUKVILLE, Cambodia — It was a hot, clear day. The kind of day when, a few months ago, the beach here would have been crowded with tourists deciding whether to drink a $1 beer or a $1 fresh coconut juice.
Instead, the beach was almost deserted. Women wandered with trays of fresh lobsters perfectly balanced on their heads or carrying kits for performing pedicures, touting in vain for customers. 
Men lounged on chairs at their restaurants offering barbecued squid and local curries. But the only patrons were stray cats and flies.

西哈努克城（柬埔寨一港口城市）ーー这是一个炎热而晴朗的日子。 几个月前, 当这里的海滩上挤满了游客, 决定是喝一美元的啤酒还是1美元的新鲜椰子汁。
相反, 海滩上几乎空无一人。 女人们带着盛满新鲜龙虾的盘子四处游荡, 或者带着用来做足疗的工具箱, 徒劳地为顾客兜售。
男人们懒洋洋地坐在餐厅的椅子上, 提供烧烤鱿鱼和当地咖喱，但是唯一的赞助人是流浪猫和苍蝇。

“We’re not going to be able to feed ourselves soon. Our business is about to die,” said Doung Sokly, a 30-year-old woman who has been selling drinks, snacks and cigarettes from a cart on Independence Beach for eight years.  
A block away, however, business is booming in the new casinos that have popped up in recent months. They have names such as New Macau and New MGM, and they cater exclusively to Chinese guests. Cambodians are prohibited from gambling.

"我们很快就不能养活自己了。 我们的生意就要破产了,"一位30岁的女士 Doung Sokly 说, 她在独立海滩上卖饮料、零食和香烟已经8年了。
然而, 在一个街区之外, 最近几个月涌现出来的新赌场的业务正在蓬勃发展，他们拥有新澳门和新米高梅等品牌, 专门面向中国客人。柬埔寨人被禁止赌博。

On this sunny afternoon when the beach was empty, the casinos were packed with Chinese customers smoking and slapping down $100 bills on the tables. All around were eagle-eyed Chinese supervisors and gaggles of young local women in short dresses and long eyelashes.
China is trying to spread its political and economic influence across the region, particularly through its ambitious “One Belt, One Road” infrastructure-development initiative. And Cambodia is trying to develop its economy without having to adhere to any of the human rights demands that U.S. and European governments tend to insist upon.

在这个阳光明媚的下午, 海滩上空无一人, 赌场里挤满了中国顾客, 他们抽着烟, 把100美元的钞票放在桌子上周围都是一群目光敏锐的中国监管人员和一群身着短裙、长睫毛的年轻当地女孩。
中国正试图通过其雄心勃勃的"一带一路"基础设施发展倡议在整个地区扩大其政治和经济影响力, 柬埔寨正在努力发展经济, 而不必坚持美国和欧洲政府倾向于坚持的任何人权要求。

Those two interests directly coincide in Sihanoukville, a port city on the Gulf of Thailand named after the late king who is still revered as the father of modern Cambodia. 
It is here that Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen’s willingness to be embraced by China is most evident.
“Sihanoukville is kind of a poster boy for China’s development. On all economic measures, China is number one,” said Carl Thayer, a Southeast Asia expert affiliated with the Australian Defense Force Academy and a former adviser at U.S. Pacific Command in Hawaii. “China is definitely trying to displace the U.S., and it’s succeeding wonderfully.”

这两种利益重合在在西哈努克市——一个位于泰国湾并以已故国王命名的港口城市, 他仍被尊为现代柬埔寨之父。
正是在这里，柬埔寨首相洪森接受中国的意愿是最明显的。
"西哈努克市在某种程度上是中国发展的典范。 在所有经济措施上, 中国都是第一位的,"卡尔 · 塞耶说, 他是澳大利亚国防学院的东南亚专家, 也是美国太平洋司令部夏威夷分部的前顾问。 "中国绝对是在试图取代美国, 而且取得了惊人的成功。"

For Hun Sen, who has been in power for 33 years and is taking steps to ensure he will be reelected in a vote scheduled for the end of July, this investment means he is able to boast about economic advances even as democratic institutions backslide.
The Cambodian government has allowed extraordinary levels of Chinese investment: Thirty casinos have already been built, and 70 more are under construction. 
One huge development, the Blue Bay casino and condos, advertises itself as “one of the iconic projects of China’s One Belt, One Road initiative.” The smallest studios start at $143,000, while the most prized apartments cost more than $500,000.
The number of Chinese tourists visiting Sihanoukville, a city of 90,000, doubled between 2016 and 2017 to hit 120,000 last year. Restaurants, banks, landlords, pawnshops, duty-free stores, supermarkets and hotels all display signs in Chinese.

对于已经执政33年的洪森来说, 他正在采取措施确保他将在7月底的投票中再次当选, 这项投资意味着即使在民主体制倒退的情况下, 他仍然能够夸耀经济进步。
柬埔寨政府允许中国的投资达到了惊人的水平：30家赌场已经建成，还有70家正在建设中。
这是一个巨大的发展，蓝湾赌场及其公寓标榜自己是"中国一带一路倡议的标志性项目之一" ，最小的单间公寓起价为14.3万美元， 而最值钱的公寓售价超过50万美元。
中国游客数量在2016年至2017年间翻了一番, 达到12万人次。 餐馆、银行、房屋、当铺、免税商店、超市和酒店都有中文标识。

 

The New MGM, a Chinese casino in Sihanoukville. (Anna Fifield/The Washington Post) 

西哈努克市的一家中国赌场——新米高梅。 (安娜 · 菲菲尔德 / 华盛顿邮报)

But with the exception of those working in the hotels and casinos, most Cambodians, whose average income is $1,100 a year, are seeing little benefit from this investment. And resentment is mounting.
“My business has halved,” said Chhim Phin, who has run a seafood restaurant on Independence Beach since 2003. “We used to have lots of Western tourists coming here, people who liked to try our food. But Chinese tourists don’t want to eat Khmer food and experience our local customs — they prefer to eat their own food. Chinese tourists like to stay in their bubble.” 

但除了那些在酒店和赌场工作的人之外, 大多数柬埔寨人的平均年收入是1100美元, 他们看不到这种投资带来的好处，不满情绪不断增加。
"我的生意已经减半了,"自2003年以来, 他在独立海滩开了一家海鲜餐厅。 "我们以前有很多西方游客来这里, 他们喜欢尝试我们的食物， 但是中国游客不想吃高棉食品, 也不想体验当地的风俗习惯ーー他们喜欢吃自己的食物，中国游客喜欢自己呆着。"

Next to his restaurant, a plot of land that used to be filled with backpacker bars that held dance parties on the beach has been reduced to rubble, the lease taken over by Chinese developers.
And when Chinese customers do come to his restaurant, Chhim Phin is not thrilled with their business. “I don’t speak Chinese, so it’s very difficult to communicate,” he said. “To be honest, I’ve had a very bad experience dealing with Chinese. They’re so rude.”
Doung Sokly, operating her cart, does not enjoy interacting with the new arrivals, either. “Western tourists don’t haggle, because they want to try local things. But Chinese tourists really try to get the prices down,” she said. 
As if on cue, a group of Chinese tourists on the beach erupted into laughter and yelling. “Listen to them. They’re so loud,” she said, glancing over at the group with a look of distaste. “It’s so annoying.”

在他的餐馆旁边，一片曾经挤满了在海滩上举办舞会的背包客酒吧的土地，已被中国开发商接管，变成了一片瓦砾。
当中国顾客来到他的餐厅时, 他对自己的生意并不感到兴奋。 "我不会说汉语, 所以很难沟通,"他说。 "老实说, 我在与中国人打交道方面有很糟糕的经历， 他们太粗鲁了。"
正在操作手推车的 Doung Sokly 也不喜欢和新来的人互动。 "西方游客不会讨价还价, 因为他们想尝试当地的东西，但中国游客会使劲还价," 她表示。
就在这时, 海滩上的一群中国游客突然大笑起来，大喊大叫。 " 你听听，他们太吵了," 带着厌恶的眼神瞥了一眼那这人， 她说道，" 太烦人了 。"

Locals are also worried about organized crime resulting from the casinos, and the increasing incidents of drunken violence. After the publication of reports about the pros and cons of Chinese investment, Beijing’s ambassador acknowledged that “a small amount of low-educated people” from his country were breaking Cambodian laws.
Not that Western tourists are always well behaved. Sex tourism is a draw for some, while others have recently gotten into trouble for lewd behavior.
One local business owner who is happy with the Chinese influx is Ko Hong. He rents water scooters, charging Westerners $60 for an hour of joyriding. For Chinese customers, the price is $50. 
“Before it was more seasonal, but now I can earn lots of money,” Ko Hong said. On an average day he makes $200.

当地人也担心赌场造成的有组织犯罪, 以及越来越多的酒后暴力事件， 在发表有关中国投资利弊的报告后, 中国驻柬大使承认, 中国"少量受教育程度低的人"违反了柬埔寨法律。
并不是说西方游客总是表现良好。 对于一些人来说, 性旅游是一个吸引力, 而另一些人最近因为下流行为而陷入麻烦。
一位对中国人涌入感到满意的当地企业主是高洪，他出租水上摩托, 向西方人收取60美元的一小时的车费， 对中国消费者收取的价格是50美元。
" 以前是季节性的, 但现在我可以赚更多钱"，高洪说，他平均每天赚200美元。

 

A model of the Blue Bay, a Chinese resort under construction in Sihanoukville. (Anna Fifield/The Washington Post) 

西哈努克市正在建设中的中国度假胜地蓝湾模型。 (安娜 · 菲菲尔德 / 华盛顿邮报)

The main reason for the exodus of Western tourists and influx of Chinese visitors is accommodations, Chhim Phin and other business owners here say.
The cheaper hotels and guesthouses that locals and Western tourists have liked have been crowded out by the big Chinese developers, who will pay much more for the land. Those that do remain have trouble hiring staff because they’re being snatched up for much higher wages.
“There used to be cheap accommodations here, but not anymore,” said Koeun Sao, a 29-year-old who estimates that his income from driving a tuk-tuk has dropped by 70 percent in the past three months. “Chinese people take cars, not tuk-tuks.”

“大批西方游客和中国游客大量涌入的主要原因是住宿”Chin Phin以及这里的其他商人说。
当地人和西方游客喜欢的廉价酒店和宾馆已经被中国的大开发商挤得水泄不通, 他们将为土地支付更多的费用，那些仍然留下的人在招聘员工方面遇到了困难，因为好的员工被抢走了，因为他们开出的工资要高得多。

"过去这里的住宿条件很便宜, 但现在已经没有了便宜住宿了, " 29岁的 Koeun Sao 说，据他估计，过去的三个月里，他开突突车的收入下降了70% ，“ 中国人坐汽车，不坐突突车。”

The Chinese investment has not translated into better roads or other infrastructure in a city that struggles with basic plumbing. 
“All this building they’re doing is only to benefit Chinese,” Koeun Sao said. “It’s good for the landowners but not for ordinary people.”
But both the Cambodian and Chinese governments tout their economic cooperation.  
The Sihanoukville Special Economic Zone, a 4.4-square-mile industrial park where 104 of the 121 companies are Chinese, “stands as a symbol of renewed China-Cambodia friendship by delivering real benefits to the people,” Chinese Premier Li Keqiang wrote for a Cambodian newspaper when he visited in January.

中国的投资并没有转化为更好的道路或其他基础设施, 这个城市仍然受困于基本的管道系统。
“他们建造的所有这些建筑都是为了让中国人受益，”KoeunSao说。“这对土地所有者有利，但对普通人不利。”
但柬埔寨和中国政府都在吹嘘他们的经济合作。
中国总理李克强今年1月访问柬埔寨时，一家柬埔寨报纸写道：“西哈努克经济特区是一个4.4平方英里的工业园, 121家公司中有104家是中国企业。"

The two countries pledged to more than double the number of Chinese tourists coming to Cambodia to 2 million within the next two years and to boost bilateral trade to $6 billion.
“We’ll try to remain here,” Doung Sokly said from behind her cart. “We need to see how things unfold.”
While here, Li signed 19 business deals. These included building an expressway between the capital, Phnom Penh, and Sihanoukville to replace the potholed narrow roads that link the cities now, and the construction of a new airport in Phnom Penh.

在此期间, 李克强签署了19项商业协议。 这些措施包括在首都金边和西哈努克市之间修建一条高速公路, 以取代现在连接城市的崎岖狭窄的道路, 以及在金边修建一座新机场。
两国承诺在未来两年内把前往柬埔寨的中国游客数量增加一倍以上, 达到200万人次, 并将双边贸易额提高到60亿美元。
"我们会努力留在这里, " Doung Sokly 在她的手推车后面说。 "我们需要看看事情会如何发展。"


Katerbabe: 
This is a enlightening article for me. My husband and I visited this town on our trip to Cambodia in November, and we were talking about how it appeared that there was development going on that was going to change the landscape. Now I know where that was coming from! We stayed at a more “Western” high end hotel and were shocked at how beautiful it was…and how empty. There were very few other tourists, and the beaches that our guidebooks had described seemed full of vendors waiting to sell and not many tourists to buy from them. There did appear to be huge hotels at other ends of the beach that were only available to those hotel patrons, so that may have been where all the activity was. We also spoke with our local guides and they were frustrated that the Chinese were building in Cambodia but never hired Khmer workers or put anything into their local economy. I think we may have seen the end of an era there.

这是一篇对我有启发意义的文章。去年11月，我和丈夫在柬埔寨之行中访问了这个小城，我们谈到了正在进行的发展是如何改变当地景观的，现在我知道这是怎么回事了！我们住在一家更“西方”的高端酒店，对它的美丽感到震惊。。。但是，里面空荡荡的，游客寥寥无几，我们的旅游指南所描述的海滩似乎到处都是等待出售商品的小贩，而从他们那里买东西的游客也不多，在海滩的另一端，似乎确实有一些大型酒店但只对那些酒店的顾客开放，我们还与当地导游进行了交谈，他们感到沮丧，中国人在柬埔寨建房，但从未雇佣高棉工人，也没有向当地经济投入任何资金，我想我们可能已经看到了一个时代的终结。

Sovich:
Sad. This is not the same Sihanoukville anymore. It used to be a fun place, and now I feel like it not.

伤心。这里不再是原来的西哈努克城了，它过去是个有趣的地方，现在我觉得不好玩了。

Bradyt:
They already have Tibet. I guess that isn't enough anymore.

他们已经占领了西藏，我猜可能他们觉得还不够。

HRT17:
The Chinese have disputes with many countries (and there are quite a few) they share territorial/marine borders with. What do you expect from a regime that has little knowledge of what "human rights" means? It doesn't even care about its own people (don't think economic prosperity, think Tiananmen and brutal oppression of democracy advocates). As you can see, even the Chinese subjects (I find it difficult to call them"citizens") who are only informed about the world by state-controlled media have taught themselves a certain kind of deplorable arrogance.
With all the tension brewing up in Cambodia, one feels something is going to give sooner or later.

中国与许多国家(有相当多的国家)有领土/海洋边界争端。对一个不知道“人权”意味着什么的的政权有何期望？它甚至不关心自己的人民( 别想经济繁荣，想想对TianAnMen事件和民主的倡导者残酷压迫)。正如你所看到的，就连那些只通过国家控制的媒体了解世界的中国人(我觉得很难称他们为“公民”)，也教会了自己一种可悲的傲慢。
随着柬埔寨局势的紧张，人们会觉得有些事情迟早会发生。

Francaise:
The take-over of these countries will not be with guns but casinos ! Very sad. Cambodia is a lovely country, the inhabitants are very friendly. I loved my stay there.

接管这些国家的不是枪支，而是赌场！很伤心。柬埔寨是一个可爱的国家，居民非常友好，我喜欢呆在那里。

Sailing bird:
The tile of this article is non sense because wouldn't anybody be not happy if strangers came into your home and perverted your household with immorality, gamblings, and kicked you out so they can live in your rightful home? If you understand Khmer history: the Chinese second tactic is to kill the Khmer population through Trojan horse economic deals after all they paid Pol Pot the first time with the genocide, but were unable to control all of Cambodia because Viet Nam took the genicidal role. Presently, they are buying off Hun Sen, the idiot dictator (thanks to the West's open trade with China), they have "invested" or indirectly control real estates and populate their own ethnic people in sovereign countries. The Chinese are buying and building properties all over in Asia, Europe (parts of Italy is becoming filthy because of them), Africa, S. America, and even US. Their God is money. (Journalists have a tendency to victimize Cambodians when the victimization is found throughout the world. There is a bias since the invention of modern TV that the West tend to romanticized/fantasized China and ignorantly see it as Asia whilst there are many ethnicities beside China in reality.) Why else would they put a high priority in building casinos and killing "poor people"? The majority in SE Asia knows communist China is a cursed people and would have never given them the abundant wealth that the Capitalist West have created for the Chinese. They have brought most of the so called word leaders starting from Kissinger (China's tool, who incorrectly thinks China can be a counterbalance to Russia -- what a joke!) China is a greater threat than Russia！

这篇文章毫无意义，因为如果陌生人闯进你的家，用不道德的行为和赌博把你踢出去，让他们可以住在你合法的家，难道会有人高兴吗？如果你了解高棉历史：中国的第二种策略是通过特洛伊木马经济交易杀死高棉人--- 毕竟他们第一次是通过支持波尔布特来进行种族灭绝，但由于越南扮演了种族灭绝的角色，他们无法控制整个柬埔寨。目前，他们正在收买愚蠢的独裁者洪森( 这得感谢西方与中国的开放贸易，让他们有了钱 )，他们“投资”或间接控制房地产，并在其它主权国家安置自己的国民，中国人在亚洲，欧洲（意大利的部分地区因此而变得肮脏），非洲，南美，甚至美国都购买和建造房产，他们的上帝就是金钱。（当受害者遍布世界各地时，记者倾向于伤害柬埔寨人，自从现代电视发明以来，西方倾向于将中国浪漫化/幻想化，并无知地将其视为亚洲，而事实上亚洲除了中国人还有许多种族。）为什么他们会把建设赌场和杀死“穷人”放在首位呢？东南亚的大多数人都知道共产主义的中国是一个被诅咒的国家，并且从来不会像西方资本主义为中国人创造财富那样给他们带来财富，他们带来了是始自基辛格（中国的工具，他错误地认为中国可以对抗俄罗斯 - 这是一个笑话！）的，所谓的“世界领袖”，中国是一个比俄罗斯更大的威胁！

Kael:
This has already happened in HK. This is why many young HKers want independence as our own city-state. For everyone who has their own nation, kick the chinese cancer out for your children's sakes!

这种情况在香港已经发生过了，这就是为什么许多年轻的香港人想要独立成为我们自己的城邦，为了每个拥有自己国家的人，为了你们的孩子，把中国癌踢出去！

Beigun:
Perhaps it would be better to export Maoism again to Cambodia?
America left Cambodia behind after the Mayaguez incident, ignoring the Pol Pot genocide until the movie "Killing Fields" a decade later.
Replace Sihanoukville with Honolulu and this story is a flash back to the 1980s and Japanese money.
If America wants to have influence in SE Asia it will need more than "backpackers."
Maybe WAPO can write about the change in Phuket or Phattaya over the years? You know, those pristine beaches with "nipa" huts for backpackers. Only difference is "Western" money, no?

也许再向柬埔寨输出毛主义会更好？
马亚盖兹事件发生后，美国将柬埔寨抛在身后，对波尔布特大屠杀视而不见，直到十年后拍了部电影“杀戮战场”。
把西哈努克维城换成檀香山，这个类似的故事可以追溯到20世纪80年代以及日本的经济发展。
如果美国想在东南亚拥有影响力，它需要的不仅仅是“背包客”。
也许“华盛顿邮报”可以写一下近几年来普吉岛或芭堤雅的变化？你知道的，就是那些给背包客的带“尼帕”小屋原始海滩，唯一不同的是那里是“西方”投的钱，不是吗？

washing laundry 18 hours ago :
Sounds like Havana in the 1950's.

听起来像20世纪50年代的哈瓦那。

​