英国：美妆界的“快时尚”革命 [英国媒体]

A shake-up in make-up

美妆界的“快时尚”革命

Kiko is applying fast-fashion principles to the cosmetics business

Kiko为美妆界带来了快时尚理念



An affordable new you

轻松打造全新自我

COPYING can be a form of innovation when a company pinches ideas from a different industry and applies them to its own. This is what Kiko, a Milanese cosmetics company, is doing. It is adopting the principles already used to great success by “fast-fashion” clothing chains such as Zara and H&M: constantly changing the line-up of products in its stores to encourage customers to visit frequently; responding rapidly to the latest consumer trends; and keeping prices low. Its success is encouraging some of the industry’s bigger brands to rethink their distribution model.

复制也可以是一种创新——如果一家公司是从别的行业汲取灵感，再在自己的领域中付之于实践——来自米兰的Kiko美妆公司正是这样做的。诸如Zara、H&M等连锁店在时装业取得的巨大成功，皆因其秉持了“快时尚”的理念：店铺商品频繁更新，吸引顾客隔三差五来逛；所售商品设计皆走在时尚前沿；始终保持低价位。“快时尚”取得的巨大成功甚至令同一领域中的很多大品牌都深受鼓舞，并且重新思考销售策略。而Kiko则继承了这种理念。

Worldwide, the cosmetics market (including cleansers and skin creams as well as make-up) grew by 3.6% to *181 billion ($240 billion) in 2014; it is expected to double over the next 10-15 years, according to EY, a consulting firm. Thus far, the industry has essentially been divided in two. More expensive brands tend to be sold in specialist beauty-store chains or in concessions in department stores, where shoppers can try them and get beauty tips before buying. Cheaper brands are sold in chemists’ shops or supermarkets, with little customer service. Kiko’s chain of own-label stores offers the best of both worlds: cheap prices plus makeover advice.

放眼全球美妆市场（包括洁面、面霜和化妆品在内），2014年的销售额增长了3.6%，达到了1810亿欧元（2400亿美元）（译者注：欧元符号无法显示，以*代替）；根据EY咨询公司的数据，在接下来的10-15年美妆用品的销售额可望翻倍。迄今为止，美妆品牌分成了两大阵营。贵妇品牌倾向于在专业的连锁美妆店或者在商场的专柜出售自己的产品，这样就给了顾客在购买前亲自试用并且得到专业美容建议的机会。而平价品牌则在药店或者超市中出售，基本不提供任何服务。但Kiko品牌连锁店却将这两大阵营的优点合二为一：平易近人的价格附加专业美妆建议。

Kiko’s revenues have risen to *432m since it was founded in 1997 by Percassi, an Italian retail group. According to Kantar Worldpanel, a research firm, French 15-24-year-olds now buy as much from Kiko, in volume terms, as they do from Sephora, a cosmetics multi-brand retailer with revenues said to be around *4.6 billion which is part of LVMH, a luxury-goods giant.

自Kiko由意大利零售巨头Percassi于1997年创办以来，其年销售额已经达到了4.32亿欧元。根据Kantar Worldpanel的调研，法国15-24岁的女性现在Kiko购买美妆产品的数量已经与Sephora持平。Sephora是奢侈品集团LVMH旗下的美妆零售店品牌，年销售额约为46亿欧元。

Much of Kiko’s success draws on Percassi’s experience in fashion retail. Antonio Percassi, the group’s boss, who also owns several other brands, a restaurant and a football club, began working with Benetton, an Italian clothing chain, in the 1970s to develop its shops around the world. In 2001 he entered a joint venture with Inditex, the Spanish group which owns Zara, to bring its brands to Italy. This year Percassi partnered with Victoria’s Secret, an American underwear firm which has driven sales of lingerie out of department stores and into its smaller shops, to open its first Italian outlets.

Kiko的成功来自于Percassi集团在时尚零售业中取得的经验。Antonio Percassi不仅是该集团的老板，更拥有多个品牌、一家餐厅以及一家足球俱乐部。Antonio Percassi曾于1970年代在意大利时装连锁品牌Benetton工作，帮助该品牌在全球开展业务。他于2001年进入一家合资企业，将西班牙Inditex集团旗下包括Zara在内的多个品牌引进意大利。而在今年，Percassi与美国内衣品牌维多利亚的秘密展开合作，在意大利开办了该品牌第一家Outlets店。维多利亚的秘密只在品牌自营的小型专卖店，而非商场专柜销售其性感内衣。

Kiko operates all the outlets where its products are sold, which all have the same modern design. This makes it easier to provide a consistent level of service, says Mr Percassi. Being vertically integrated also makes it easier to ensure the shops remain well-stocked. The chain has two distribution centres: one in Bergamo, Italy, for European outlets, and one opened recently in New Jersey for North America.

Kiko只在Outlets中经营专卖店，每家店的装修都是统一且摩登的。Percassi先生认为这样易于保持每一家Kiko店的服务档次。而且这种直营的管理方式也更易于保证库存充足。该连锁品牌共有两家分销中心，一家在意大利的贝加莫，负责位于欧洲的所有outlets店；另一家不久前开在美国新泽西，负责北美的销售业务。

Kiko’s growth seems to be encouraging other firms in the cosmetics and beauty business to reconsider their business models. Higher-end brands like Benefit (part of LVMH) and L’Occitane (which is mostly in the skincare end of the business) are putting more emphasis on their own outlets and less on selling through other retailers. Nocibé, a big French retailer, last year began testing stores that stock mainly its own cosmetics brand, which it developed two years earlier. L’Oréal, the world’s largest cosmetics group, is opening “dermacentres”, outlets which sell its skincare brands, such as Vichy and La Roche Posay. It is also developing the retail network of Nyx, a Los Angeles-based cosmetics firm with annual sales of $200m, which it bought last year.

Kiko的发展使得美妆界的其他公司开始重新思考自己的营销模式。中高端品牌如Benefit（LVMH旗下）和L’Occitane（主要经营护肤产品）纷纷开始侧重于品牌自营的outlets店，而减少了对其他零售渠道的重视程度。法国零售巨头Nocibé两年前创立了自己的美妆品牌，并于去年开始尝试经营主营自己美妆品牌的店铺。世界最大的美妆集团L’Oréal开办了outlets店dermacentres，经营自己旗下如Vichy和La Roche Posay等护肤品牌的产品。另外该集团去年还收购了本部位于洛杉矶的零售网站Nyx，该网站年销售额达到了2亿美元。

So far most customers of Kiko, as at other cosmetics firms, are women. But men who moisturise are becoming less rare, and in South Korea there is a brisk trade in masculine make-up (see article). Kiko’s parent company has taken a cautious step towards this market, opening a chain called Womo (as in uomo, “man” in Italian), which sells men’s clothes and toiletries. As male grooming continues to evolve into male preening, it would be no problem for these stores to slip in a few discreet lines of cosmetics, to spare men’s blushes as they try their first dab of blusher.

目前Kiko以及其他美妆公司的顾客绝大部分都是女性，但护肤的男性也已不再罕见。在韩国，男性化妆的潮流已经涌现（详见文章，译者注：正在翻译，请感兴趣的各位稍等）。Kiko的母公司已谨慎地开始这个市场的试水，创办了男性服饰与洗漱用品连锁店Womo（源于意大利语uomo，意为“男士”）。如果男士护肤风潮能够继续发展至男士美妆，那么该连锁店则毫无疑问会开始提供男士化妆品，在男人们初试胭脂的那天到来时分得一杯羹。