一天中最重要的一顿？咸肉游说者和宗教如何造就了我们所熟知的早餐 [英国媒体]

The most important meal of the day? How bacon lobbyists and religion created breakfast as we know it

一天中最重要的一顿？咸肉游说者和宗教如何造就了我们所熟知的早餐



Until very recently, common wisdom held that breakfast was the most important meal of the day. We’ve anecdotally tied all sorts of ills to a failure to sit down to a “complete breakfast.” But health research hasproven that skipping that fried egg or bowl of cereal does not, in fact, lead to weight gain, health issues or underperformance.

直到最近，人们普遍认为早餐是一天中最重要的那一顿。我们将所有的疾病都和没有坐下来好好吃早餐联系在一起。但是健康研究证明了不吃煎蛋和麦片粥根本不会导致体重增加，健康问题或者其他的身体不良表现。

Our reverence for breakfast is actually relatively recent. Before the late 19th century in the US, breakfast didn’t have any particular importance ascribed to it. But all that was changed by a small group of religious fanatics and lobbyists for cereal and bacon companies.

我们对早餐的敬意实际上并不是由来已久。在19世纪末之前的美国，早餐没有任何的重要性。但是一群宗教狂热分子以及谷物和培根公司的游说者改变了这一切。

Historically, breakfast didn’t come with its own list of prescribed foods, says Abigail Carroll, author of Three Squares: The Invention of the American Meal. People simply ate whatever they had around for breakfast, which was often leftovers from the night before.

历史上，早餐并没有规定一定要吃什么，《三个正方形：美国膳食之发明》的作者Abigail Carroll如是说。当时人们早餐有什么就吃什么，通常是前一天晚上吃剩下的食物。

By the 1800s, what Americans think of as a farmer’s breakfast started showing up at the table.

到了19世纪，被美国人视为农民早餐的食品开始展现在桌面上。

Eggs have always been a popular breakfast food, says Heather Arndt Anderson, author of Breakfast: A History. Chickens lay eggs in the morning, and egg dishes are easy and fast to prepare. Meat that did not have to be slaughtered that day and could keep was also incorporated. Chicken was never a breakfast food, points out Arndt, as no one is going to kill a chicken first thing in the morning, but cured meat from a pig that was previously slaughtered could be.

鸡蛋一直以来都是受人们喜爱的早餐食物，《早餐的历史》作者Heather Arndt Anderson如是说。鸡在早上下蛋，而且鸡蛋的制作也很简单快捷。不用当天屠宰可以保存很久的肉类也融入了早餐。Arndt称鸡肉从来就不是早餐食品，因为没有人会一大早就起来杀鸡，但是提前准备好的腌猪肉就可以了。

In the late 19th century, however, people began to worry about indigestion as the Industrial Revolution saw people move from farm labor to factories and offices, where a lot of their time was spent sitting or standing in one place. Heavy farm breakfasts before work got the blame for indigestion, a major preoccupation at the time, and a lighter version became the ideal.

到了19世纪末期，人们开始担心消化不良，因为工业革命让人们从农场工人变成了蓝领和白领，上班时长时间保持一个站姿或者坐姿。所以人们将消化不良归咎于那种农场式的沉重的早餐食物，而易消化的早餐食物开始成为人们的首选。

It was around this time, in the middle of a general healthier living fad, that breakfast cereals got their start at sanatoriums founded by followers of the newly formed Seventh-day Adventist religion.

大约就在这个时候，在大众追求健康饮食的潮流下，早餐谷物开始在新成立的基督复临安息日会的追随者所创立的休养地里登场。

These religious health gurus opened sanatoriums and introduced people to vegetarian diets and eating bland, whole wheat as a way to counter ill health. The first cereal, invented by James Caleb Jackson, and the better known Kellogg’s brand, invented by John Harvey Kellogg, were both born at sanatoriums.

这些宗教性的健康专家开办休养地，让人们吃素食和清淡的全麦来进行修养。由James Caleb创立的首个谷类食品以及更为人所知的家乐氏品牌（John Harvey Kellogg创立）都诞生于休养地。

It was a combination of fear of indigestion, religious moralization and advertising that helped push the idea of breakfast as the most important meal of the day – but it was a campaign to sell more bacon that really solidified the idea. A public relations expert working for the Beech-Nut company, Edward Bernays, whose other claim to fame was being the nephew of Sigmund Freud, exploited all the moralization and health fears around breakfast to help the company push its bacon.

总之，人们对消化不良的担忧，宗教教化以及广告的宣传导致人们认为早餐是一天中最重要的一餐——但是这一观念深入人心的真正原因是培根公司为了卖出更多培根而开展的运动。当时有一名为比纳公司工作的公关专家，他的名字是 Edward Bernays，也就是精神分析学家佛洛伊德的外甥。他为了推销该公司的培根，利用了所有的道德教化以及早餐所引发的健康恐惧心理。

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darevsky 2h ago 
The old addage goes, "eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince and dinner like a beggar". It's actually logical when you consider the digestion process and when energy is required.

有一句古老的个格言是这么说的“像国王一样吃早餐，像王子一样吃午餐，像乞丐一样吃晚餐”。考虑到消化的过程和能量的获取，这句话还蛮有道理的。

maryukabin 2h ago
We had a visitor from the US who said they had heard about cream teas and could they have one. I duly made the scones and she tried the cream tea and declared it delicious. We had some scones left over and the next morning I found her having breakfast. Cream tea. Why not?

我有一个来自美国的访客，说他们听说过英式奶油茶点，说可以尝尝看吗。所以我就制作了一些给她吃，她说很好吃。然后有剩下一点烤饼没吃完，第二天我发现她在吃早餐。奶油茶点。为什么不？

Gerry4  maryukabin 1h ago
Because scones are best eaten on the day they are made?

因为烤饼当天吃最好吃？

1HappyDays 2h ago
Breakfast? What's Breakfast? Never had time for that.

早餐？什么早餐？从来没时间吃早餐。

Alia Breitwieser 2h ago
"If you have cold pizza for breakfast, it says what sort of person you are" — a superior one!

“如果你把冷披萨当早餐，这表明了你是什么样的人”——说得好！

Chong Albert 2h ago
Eating is a joy. Sometime better than sex said some people. I guess it may be true when you are much older when sex is not as exciting . I digressed. 
If we do not abuse food it will always be a joy to eat when we are hungry. Each poor meal is an opportunity wasted in life. I wish we eat quality rather than quantity. Quality is a function of money which most of us are not well endowed.
So what is these discussions about? Eat within you means and eat the most tasty food you like. Life is too short to argue about breakfast or not.

吃饭是一种乐趣。有些人认为，有时候吃饭比性爱更让人享受。我觉得确实如此，尤其是当你年老时对性爱已经没有那么多的激情。
如果我们不滥用食物，那么肚子饿了再吃饭总是令人享受的。不好好吃饭，相当于浪费了你生命中的机会。我希望人们吃得有品质，而不是关注吃的多还是少。品质是金钱所具有的一个功能，但是我们很多人都不懂得使用这个功能。
所以这个讨论的用意何在？按照你自己的方式吃，并且吃最美味的食物。生命太短暂，用来争论该不该吃早餐真是太浪费了。

Esther move 1h ago
I dont have breakfast... hate the stuff, coffee yes,but actual food in the morning? yuck. Still alive despite parental dissaproval at this horrendous lifestyle faux pas.

我不吃早餐，讨厌吃早餐，咖啡可以有，但是早上的时候吃东西？恶心。尽管父母反对，但是我现在不还活得好好的吗。

Roythecowdog 1h ago
Pigs are amazing animals and we should recoil in horror at the thought of them on our breakfast plate.
Would you eat your dog?

猪是神奇的动物，一想到它们成为我们的早餐，我们就应该感到恐惧。
你会吃你家的狗吗？

Michael John Jackson 8h ago
What's wrong with cold pizza? I had cold cottage pie for breakfast yesterday.

早上吃冷披萨怎么了？我以前每天早餐都吃冷的农舍派（上面铺一层捣碎的马铃薯的肉饼）

funcrew 8h ago
Yes, but bacon, eggs and toast are brilliant for any meal where you can't figure out what you want. Easy to fix, tasty, and fortifying.

是的，但是如果你不知道吃什么的话，培根，鸡蛋和土司是最佳选择。简单，美味，有能量。

Poppieshen 10h ago
I'm partial to curry leftovers at breakfast

我喜欢在早晨的时候吃咖喱剩饭。

Massimiliano Ligabue 10h ago
For breakfast I usually have a cup of coffee or tea and 3 biscuits, if I had a british breakfast my stomach would seek revenge.

早餐我喜欢喝一杯咖啡或茶以及三个小面包。如果我吃英式早餐的话，我的肚子可能受不了。

notinamillion  Massimiliano Ligabue 10h ago
I prefer Gitanes, Espresso and sex, in that order.

早上起来，我更喜欢抽黑色的Gitanes卷烟，再来一杯浓缩咖啡，最后和爱人来一发。

Markus Fiske 10h ago 
There is no better breakfast than cold pizza. If I know there is some left over I will typically get up early excited by the prospect.

没什么比早餐吃冷披萨更棒的了。如果我知道有披萨剩下，第二天我会早早的起来吃。

DystopianFuture 11h ago
Breakfast is for wimp

弱者才吃早餐。