城市故事：看深圳如何从农村到世界最大都市 [英国媒体]

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“It should be here somewhere,” says Leo Houng, a retired cello player with the Hong Kong Philharmonic. We are in a tangle of small streets in central Shenzhen, just next to Lao Jie underground station. Lao Jie (“Old Street”) has existed for decades, which is more than can be said for most of Shenzhen. 

“应该是这儿的某个地方，”黄礼说，他是一名香港交响乐团的退休大提琴手。我们正处在深圳中心位置密密麻麻的街道之中，紧邻老街地铁站。老街（意思是古老的街道）已存在数十年了，尤其对大部分深圳而言值得一说。

When Houng stayed here in 1974 on his way to Hong Kong, Old Street was pretty much the only road around – with just a few lanes leading off it, dotted with simple restaurants and a handful of small shops. From there, unpaved alleys soon merged with the surrounding open countryside – an unimaginable landscape from today's suffocating vantage point.

1974年黄先生在去香港的途中在这里停留过，当时老街几乎是这里唯一的街道——沿途有几条小巷，简单的几个餐馆和屈指可数的小商店点缀其间。这之后，未铺砖的胡同很快合并了周围广阔的乡村——站在今天这个令人窒息的制高点，你根本无法想象这样一幅景象。

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“Back then it smelled very green; it smelled of countryside,” Houng says. “There was no pollution or industrialisation, just natural smells.”

”当年这里环境非常好，充满乡村气息，“黄先生说。“这里没有污染和工业化，只有自然气息”

Shenzhen, a city of around 11 million people, is now merely one element of the Pearl River Delta, the world's largest continuously urbanised area with a population of more than 60 million people – not including all the undocumented migrants, nor the inhabitants of its two “special administrative regions”, Hong Kong (7.5 million) and Macao (580,000).

深圳，一座大约1100万人口的城市，现在仅仅是珠江三角洲的一部分，珠江三角洲是世界上最大的持续城市化区域，人口超过6000万—还不包括无证移民和两个“特别行政区”的居民，香港（750万）和澳门（58万）。








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corstopitum 17h ago
I crossed the border by train from HK to PRC at Shenzen in 1978.
Actually you crossed the border on foot because the train from Kowloon station stopped on the HK side of a little stream or creek, you then lugged your bags over the timbers of an old rail bridge to the PRC customs/immigration shed on the other side before boarding the waiting Chinese train there. I was used to the grilling you got from suspicious officials in those days when crossing the borders to Eastern Europe or even the US. So I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of this when entering the PRC.
It seemed a rather rustic place. Apart from the station shed there was not much to see other than the muddy, bamboo fringed creek and its little bridge.
Forty years later that crossing seems as remote and quaint as the tales of people using fords or stepping stones to cross the Clyde in the middle of the 18th century in what is now the centre of Glasgow.

1978年，我曾坐火车过关，从香港到大陆的深圳。
实际上你是步行过关的，因为从九龙站出发的火车在一条小河或者叫小溪的香港一侧停了。然后在你登上停在对面等候的中国列车前，你需要先拉着你的行李穿过一条木质老铁路桥，去一趟那边的中华人民共和国海关/移民局小屋。在东欧甚至美国过关的那些日子里，我已经习惯了被多疑的官员盘问，所以当我发现进入大陆没有这些事儿时，我既高兴又惊讶。
那是个相当土的地方。撇开车站小屋子，这里基本看不到啥东西，除了浑浊且斑竹环绕的小溪和它上面那简陋的桥。
四十年后再来看当时的过关，显得遥远而又奇异，如同故事里18世纪中期的人们涉水或者踩着垫脚石穿过克莱德河——如今已是格拉斯哥的中心。

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xiaodarshan 17h ago
I've been to around a hundred large Chinese cities-Xiamen does it for me,followed by Hangzhou and Kunming.Shenzhen is way,way down the list....

我到过上百个中国的大城市，厦门是最适合我的，其次是杭州和昆明。深圳要排在很靠后了......

buckwurstagain  xiaodarshan 11h ago
My top 4 mainland cities would be;
1. Shanghai
2. Xiamen
3. Dalian
4. Guangzhou
5. Hangzhou

在我看来，大陆前四的城市应该是：
1.上海
2.厦门
3.大连
4.广州
5.杭州（尼玛，不是说前四吗？）

Bottom would be a fight between Shenyang, Zhengzhou & Tianjin.

 最后应该是在沈阳，郑州和天津中取舍。
 
MasalBugduv  buckwurstagain 8h ago
Shanghai is the nuts.

上海最好？胡说八道。

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ID1487321 18h ago
Curious that the key book on the original village from which Sum Chuen/ Shenzhen emerged is not cited. See: Anita Chan, Richard Madsen, and Jonathan Unger, CHEN VILLAGE: the recent history of a peasant community in Mao's China, published in 1984 by U of California press

很好奇为何关于深圳前身的原始村庄的主要书籍不被引用下。参见：由陈佩华（Anita Chan）、赵文词（Richard Madsen）和安戈（Jonathan Unger）合着的《当代中国农村历沧桑：毛邓体制下的陈村》，1984年在加利福尼亚大学出版社出版。
 
YamJam 18h ago
Shenzhen is the arsehole of the world, full of thieves and con-men; and it is eagerly waiting to overwhelm Hong Kong once that border comes down.

深圳就是世界的屁眼，充满小偷和骗子，一旦边界消失，它将迫不及待地等着征服香港。
 
prak97  YamJam 6h ago
no....Rome is

不....罗马才是 
 
Graham Allwood 19h ago
Shame the Guardian couldn't have used a real picture of Shenzhen for its main headed photo..

无耻的卫报！你就不能给主标题配图贴张真正的深圳照片吗？

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YeOldeSoothsayer  Graham Allwood 16h ago
So what city is that a photo of then?

 那配图是哪个城市？
 
treatguardian  Graham Allwood 14h ago
Looks like SZ to me?

 对我而言就像是深圳
 
MortgagedBrokeYank 19h ago
Great article - amazing and depressing at the same time.

不错的文章——令人惊叹同时也令人沮丧

I thought my city was a dump (Los Angeles) but now I understand why half of China is trying to move abroad.

我曾认为我的城市（洛杉矶）就是个垃圾场，但现在我明白为何半数中国人都要移民国外了。

quarrytone  MortgagedBrokeYank 19h ago
Half of China? More gross exaggeration?

半数中国人？能再夸张点不？

And what of all the Americans now in China? I know 3 who moved to Shenzhen.

那现在生活在中国的美国人呢？就我知道的而言，已经有3个美国人搬到深圳去了。

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ID1078445  quarrytone 18h ago
How many Chinese people immigrated to the United States last year in 2014? 131,800 - & they aren't going back.
But you met 3 Americans who live in Shenzhen - & they WILL go back.

去年也就是14年，有多少中国人移民美国 ？131800——并且他们不会回去。
但你认识的3个在深圳生活的美国人——他们会回来。
 
quarrytone  ID1078445 18h ago
I didn't say that. I met through work colleagues and acquaintances, about ten Americans, in Beijing. 3 decided to move to Shenzhen. I only know one American couple planning on returning to the Mid West, they are earning so much money they will retire in about 8 years. She's just 29 and he's about 36. Others have been here 10 years and have no plans to return. Of course like the Chinese in America,  American students here learning the language will return.

我可没那么说。我认识他们是因为同事和熟人关系，有10个美国人在北京，有3个决定去的深圳。我只知道一对夫妇正打算回中西部，他俩赚了很多钱，再过8年左右就会退休。女的只有29岁男的也才36左右。其他人已经在此10年了，但并未打算回来。当然，跟在美国的中国人一样，任何在此学习语言的美国学生都会回去的。

But remember, China is still to some extent a developing country, so of course parts of America look attractive to a significant minority of the middle class.

但也要记住，中国目前在很大程度还是个发展中国家，所以在某些方面，美国对绝大多数中产阶级还是有很大吸引力的。

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treatguardian 20h ago
I have visited Shenzhen a few times on business and although it is a little devoid of soul, I find the energy and vibrancy of such a huge city quite exciting. There are plenty of new places popping up to enjoy a few drinks in the evening and although I am usually based way out in Bao An, it only takes 40 minutes to get to the Futian on the Metro.

因出差，我也访问过几次深圳， 虽然这地方缺少点灵魂，但当我发现这个如此巨大的城市的活力和生机时，我也很兴奋。这里有许多新地方出现，傍晚你可以在此享受小酌时光，虽然我通常在宝安区活动，但搭地铁到福田区也只需要40分钟。

June-September are far to humid to comfortably explore the city though and the pollution can be a bit of an issue as the smog becomes a bit depressing.

6月到9月因太潮湿也不能舒服地游览这座城市，并且污染也成了问题，还有令人沮丧的雾霾。

The St Regis hotel has a bar on the 96th floor that offers stunning views over the whole city and bay area. Definitely worth a visit although I think you have to pay to gain entry now.

深圳京基瑞吉酒店在96层有一个酒吧，这里能提供非常好的视野，可以看到整个城市和海湾地区。绝对值得一去，虽然现在我估计得收门票了。

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gorepe15 20h ago
I have visited the Shenzhen factory of the company I worked for a couple of times and while it's a huge new development I always found it fun and interesting. The Chinese colleagues at work always found interesting restaurants etc to make the visits enjoyable and, on a side note, were extremely helpful, attentive, polite, grateful and fun to be with. I didn't find Shenzhen any worse than other majors cities around the world e.g. London, Chicago, New York etc and in general I felt safer walking around it's parks and public areas than those mentioned. While I clearly didn't see it all, it's newness means that the decay of areas run down over decades is not yet evident as more mature cities. Of course it has little history of it's own to fall back on but accept it for what it is, the birthplace of the Chinese industrial revolution, and enjoy it!

我访问过几次我们公司在深圳的工厂，除了是个庞大的新发展区，我发现这里挺好玩也挺有趣。一起工作的中国同事总能找到非常有意思的餐馆等场所让访问变得极其享受，另外，在这期间他们也表现得非常有帮助，留心，礼貌，感激和快乐。我并未发现深圳比其他主要城市要差，比如伦敦，芝加哥，纽约等等，并且总体上讲，我觉得在公园和公共场所散步，深圳比上述城市还要安全些。当然我并未看到深圳的全部，但它的新生也意味着相比更成熟的城市，几十年的区域衰落还并未在它身上显现。虽然深圳自身的历史很短，但这里是中国工业革命的起点，接受并享受这这里吧！

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MortgagedBrokeYank  gorepe15 19h ago
But would you want to live there?

但你愿意在那居住吗？ 

YamJam  gorepe15 18h ago
You feel safe walking around Shenzhen? Try checking out the crime statistics.

你在深圳散步会有安全感吗？赶紧去查查犯罪数据吧。 
 
BrianDell  gorepe15 15h ago
It's true that it's new but it's remarkable how quickly things fall apart. They simply can't build like the Japanese do (or the Koreans) and I don't know why.

确实，这是座新城， 但是其所建造的东西也更快就瓦解。但他们为何就不能修得像日本人（或韩国人）那样呢。
 
Joe King 20h ago
I'm always amazed by the gigantic cities thrown up in 50 years in several Asian countries, not just by China. While such cities tend to have all kinds of problems and issues, and have a terrible human cost, they're still remarkable in what is achieved in just a generation or two - from greenfield countryside to sprawling megatropolis. Still, it must be very hard to have any great loyalty to a giant city/place that you know didn't exist just a few decades ago, and which thus has no past, or particular heritage.

我常常惊叹于巨型城市在几个亚洲国家短短50年间拔地而起，而不仅仅是中国。虽然这样的城市容易导致各种各样的麻烦和问题，还有巨大的人力成本，但仅仅依靠一两代人就把郊区农村变成庞大的都市，就凭这一点，他们就相当出色。但要使人们对这些巨型城市（或地方）产生强烈的忠诚感也是很难的，因为人们知道几十年前这一切都不存在，没有历史，没有遗产。

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KeithTaylor  Joe King 14h ago
Indeed. My apartment in Bangkok was farmland less than a generation ago, but you wouldn't know it unless you were told. It's a little depressing, but also impressive.

确实，我的在曼谷的公寓二三十年前也是一片农田，但你并不知晓除非有人告诉你。这让人有点小沮丧，但同样令人印象深刻。
 
Miss Mekhong 20h ago
I will defend my rice fields and orchards from the developers for ever, as will my children

我会永远挡在开发商面前保护我的稻田和果园，并且将来我的孩子们也会这么做！ 
 
atuocool 20h ago
I lived in Shenzhen. It's horrible. Dreadful vibe. I used to go to Hong Kong at every available opportunity to escape the place.

我在深圳生活过.太烂了！非常可怕的氛围！一有机会我就逃离到香港去。