中国“娘娘腔”的新潮流背后的推手……是被赋予了力量的现代女性 [联合国媒体]

The real power behind China’s new trend of ‘sissy men’ ... is the empowered modern woman

中国“娘娘腔”的新潮流背后的推手……是被赋予了力量的现代女性



The ‘luxury pig men’ are challenging traditional gender stereotypes, and some commentators believe greater empowerment for women is helping them to do so

“精猪男”正在挑战传统的性别观念，一些评论人士认为赋予女性更大的权力助长了他们这种行为。

In recent weeks, a new buzzword has emerged on the Chinese internet to describe a new breed of make-up loving young men: “luxury pig men”.

最近几周，中国互联网上出现了一个新的流行词，用来形容新一代爱化妆的年轻人：“精猪男”。



That triggered a backlash in other sections of state media as commentators and women’s groups weighed in to support the right to adopt different forms of masculinity.

这在其他官方媒体中引起了强烈反响，因为评论人士和妇女团体都在为支持他们与众不同的男性形象采取行动。

A similar debate was triggered by the first “luxury pig man” – a 25-year-old from the eastern city of Hangzhou who spends up to 30,000 yuan (US$4,380) a year on his beauty regime.

第一个“精猪男”引发了类似的争论。这位来自东部城市杭州的25岁年轻人每年花费高达3万元（合4380美元）用于美容。

Although local media criticised Xu Tao’s “excessive” grooming routine – he spent around 30 minutes each day doing his make-up – this soon triggered a heated debate as the story went viral on social media.

尽管当地媒体批评了徐涛的“过度”打扮——他每天花大约30分钟化妆——这很快引发了一场激烈的辩论，因此这个故事在社交媒体上疯传。

“They embody a new trend of male beauty that appeals more and more to female millennials,” said Matthieu Rochette-Schneider, China general manager of French brand consultancy Centdegres. “It is becoming the new beauty standard for Chinese men.”

法国品牌咨询公司Centdegres中国总经理马蒂厄•罗切特-施奈德表示：“这体现了一种男性美的新趋势，这种趋势对女性千禧一代的吸引力越来越大。”“这正成为中国男性的新美容标准。”



In this way, China is slowly beginning to mirror South Korea in its oemo jisang juui – or “looks are supreme” – culture of workplace advancement.

通过这种方式，中国正在慢慢地开始模仿韩国的oemo jisang juui——或者“看起来是至高无上的”——职场进步的文化。

Besides celebrities, many young men in China are first coming into contact with make-up through a growing number of male beauty bloggers or their friends and girlfriends.

除了名人，中国许多年轻人也开始通过越来越多的男性美容博主或他们的朋友女友来接触化妆品。

Video producer Zhang Dayu, 28, was first introduced to make-up and skincare four years ago through his beauty-conscious girlfriend Christine while they were living in Beijing.

4年前，28岁的视频制作人张大勇在北京生活时第一次被介绍使用化妆品和护肤品

“At the time, he didn’t pay much attention to his appearance, and never got into the habit of skincare,” Christine said. “His skin was coarse, his pores were obvious and his eyebrows were growing wild.”

克里斯汀说：“当时，他并没有太注意自己的外表，也没有养成护肤的习惯。”“他的皮肤很粗糙，毛孔很明显，他的眉毛也很狂野。”



One 29-year-old Beijinger nicknamed Xiaoyu said he had started using make-up two years ago because he was suffering from bad acne. Thanks to product recommendations from his male friends, the Beijinger quickly fell down a make-up rabbit hole and now spends 800 to 1,000 yuan (US$117-US$146) a month on cosmetics and skincare.

一位名叫小余的29岁的北京人说他两年前开始使用化妆品，因为他患了严重的粉刺。因一位男性朋友推荐，他很快就开始习惯化妆，现在每月在化妆品和护肤品上花费800到1000元人民币（合146美元）。

“Society’s increasing acceptance of men wearing make-up is a definite trend,” he said. “After putting on make-up I feel more confident.”

他说：“社会越来越多地接受男性化妆，这是一个明确的趋势。”“化妆后，我感觉更自信了。”

Xiaoyu normally spends an hour per day on his make-up and skincare routine, and uses a variety of products including BB creams (also known as beauty balms), foundation, face masks, sera and cleansing oils.

小余通常每天花一个小时在化妆和护肤上并使用各种各样的产品，包括BB霜（也叫美容balms）、粉底、面膜、血清和清洁油。

In recent years, male cosmetics and skincare have come to represent a small but fast-growing segment of China’s lucrative beauty industry, worth 20.13 billion yuan in total as of May 2018, according to data from Statista.

根据Statista的数据，近年来男性化妆护肤品已经成为中国利润丰厚的美容行业中一个规模虽小但增长迅速的领域，截至2018年5月该行业总销售额为20.13亿元。

Research from Euromonitor predicts that annual growth rate for male cosmetics sales in China will hit 13.5 per cent by 2019 – well ahead of 5.8 per cent for male beauty products worldwide.
A similar recent study by online retailers Vipshop.com and JD.com found that sales of male beauty products on these platforms have doubled year on year since 2015. Face masks, BB creams, lipsticks and brow products were especially popular.

欧睿研究预测，到2019年中国男性化妆品销售的年增长率将达到13.5%，远远超过全球男性美容产品5.8%。在线零售商Vipshop.com和京东最近一项类似研究发现自2015年以来，这些平台上的男性美容产品销量同比增长了一倍。面膜、BB霜、唇膏和眉毛产品尤其受欢迎。

Asia’s appetite for male cosmetics is not only fuelled by viral beauty bloggers and K-pop aesthetic ideals, but also the beauty industry’s keen desire to capitalise on this relatively new audience.
“As there is an increase in male beauty vloggers and men who wear make-up, cultural ideals of who can and how to wear make-up will definitely change,” said Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, a PhD researcher in Asian fashion trends at the London College of Fashion.

亚洲对男性化妆品的需求不仅受到了病毒式美容博主和韩国流行美学理念的推动，还受到美容行业利用这一相对较新受众的强烈愿望。
伦敦时装学院亚洲时尚趋势的博士研究员Babette Radclyffe-Thomas说：“随着男性选美者和化妆男性的增加，女性的文化思维和化妆方式肯定会改变。”

“Skincare trends also hold different cultural significance in Asia compared to other regions. Notions of skincare and grooming ideals in this region are interlinked with ideas surrounding cleanliness rather than gender or sexuality.”
But it may still be a long while before wearing full facial make-up will become the norm for Chinese men across all ages, social classes and regions.

“与其他地区相比，亚洲的护肤品趋势也具有不同的文化意义。在这个地区护肤美容的理念与清洁理念是相互联系的，而无关性别或性。“但可能还需要很长一段时间在所有年龄、社会阶层和地区的中国男性身上使得化妆成为一种常态。”



For instance, the top-rated online comments in response to the “luxury pig men” controversy were overwhelmingly supportive.
“Can the entitled straight men in the comments just blow up on the spot?” wrote one user on Weibo, China’s Twitter. “I can just imagine what this kind of person looks like in real life …”

例如，针对“精猪男”争议中排名最高的在线评论绝大多数都是支持他这么做的。“直男”会被这种行为气炸吗？一名用户在微博上写道。“我可以想象，在现实生活中这种人是什么样的。”

chat7chat7chat7@******
So all women wearing trousers or suits are cross-dressers?

所以所有穿裤子或西装的女人都是异装者？

Orpheus Alexander
China always had a eunuch class, now they have returned.

中国一直有一个太监阶级，现在他们又回来了。

todorokigokiburi@******
If they want to be gay let them be gay. It’s 2018 people!

如果他们想成为同性恋，就让他们成为同性恋吧。这都是2018了。



Punthaman
New? They've always looked that way, including PLA personnel.

这种潮流很新吗？他们一直都是这样的，包括解放军。

Clearmind
Who's to criticize them? If they get all the girls, they're the ones laughing at everyone else!

谁来批评他们？如果他们得到了所有女孩的爱，他们才有资格嘲笑其他人！

Dean Cheung
Just study what happened to Han Chinese about 1700 years ago when punks or sissy men or soy boys or 娘炮 or whatever you call them can jump around and feel proud about themselves because they were “popular” ? History repeats itself !!! Wake up !

看看1700年前汉族男子变娘后发生了什么就知道会发生什么了。历史又在重演。醒醒吧。
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